According to Style.com, Phoebe Philo’s starting point for Celine this fall was automobiles. Although this may seem like a superficial link, I think its strangely fitting. The powerful, pared down, streamlined aesthetic that the designer has reinvigorated the house with is comparable to the uncomplicated decadence associated with luxury cars. I don’t wanna look too much into this metaphor though, as it is precisely because of it that Celine resists any conceptual readings. What Philo shows are luxurious, wearable clothes that are only meant to be taken as such.
So what can be said about the pieces then? As usual, the show was comprised of chic separates, never being too invested in any particular theme. I thought that the outerwear was some of the strongest shown this season. The charcoal coat that opened the show was understated, but also had a slight old world quirkiness to it due to its long, flared cut and slim sleeves. A tangerine overcoat that popped against a black top also had a minimal appeal, as it was straightforward in shape and lacking buttons. My two favorites though were the long, boxy, brownish green topper, with its belt left undone, as well as a brown fur with a red lapel and cream forearms.
Besides all the coats, there was a plentitude of trousers. They came tapered, with the zippers at the ankles. Some even had leather strips down the side, recalling racing stripes. Dresses were either completely lacking decoration or composed, again, of leather strips. There were also some graphic sweatshirts present, providing a more casual option for the Celine customer. All in all, I think the collection was full of solid, desirable clothes. It wasn’t groundbreaking, but then again, I don’t think any of Philo’s collections for the label can be to considered so. The designer made her mark and got people talking because she reminded us that fashion can be attractive and interesting autonomous of concept. Now that the reminder has been delivered, what’s left is the creation of appealing, commercial pieces that are grounded in technical design alone.