Now that H&M’s designer collaboration with Versace has wrapped up the company has announced that Marni is working with the retailer on an upcoming Spring 2012 collection.
I’ve always been a fan of Conseulo Castiglioni’s pieces for Marni, however I’ve had a problem with how busy her runway presentations have gotten over the past few seasons. I find the shows to be way too long and composed of a cacophony of dissonant styles and prints. Its a shame, as the strength of each garment can’t be appreciated. I was ecstatic that this wasn’t the case for fall. The collection Castiglioni showed was edited and sober, in Marni terms, resulting in a solid, cohesive collection.
What is so appealing about Marni is that the clothing can be eccentric, strange, luxurious and glamorous all at once. The quirkiness of the geometric prints, bright colors and jewelry, mixed with the elongated, elegant silhouette made for looks that were desirable both for their luxe factor, as well as their unique look. I loved the geometrics, some done in bold shades, such as green, blue and yellow, others reduced to just octagons.
I found that many of the Milan shows were lacking in outerwear this season. Castiglioni, however, offered up some really great options. The leathers she showed at the end were severe in their simplistic cuts. Shown how they were, layered over furs, made them look softer though. I also really enjoyed how precious an off-white dress and coat combo appeared. The beading at the bottom was just the right detail to make the ensemble really special. My favorite piece of the entire show, however, was the green and brown fur coat worn over a pink skirt and camel sweater. Its deep, contrasting colors were exemplary of how Marni manages to occupy a space somewhere between an expensive sophistication and a charming playfulness.
Here are some photos from Marni’s latest menswear collection. I really like the fact that Consuelo Castiglioni opted for baggier volumes. The pieces have an interesting fit to them. I love all the loose trousers and jackets. The shoes are also really great, some with contrasting straps running across them.
Everything has a sort of worker’s aesthetic to it. The fits are a bit off, the colors pragmatic (for the most part) and the fabrics kind of rough. Although not as prevalent as in her women’s collections, Castiglioni still injected some much welcomed whimsy in the form of contrasting stripes. She still manages to keep an air of sophistication throughout, despite the boyishness of the clothes. The camel coat with the leather sleeves is like a more refined version of an Alexander Wang denim from a few seasons back.
Consuelo Castiglioni should be commended for her original point of view and focus. Its because of it that she no longer has to worry about trends. I mean, Marni stayed relevant in the face of the leather and stud overload of the past couple of years and Castiglioni never compromised her whimsical, girly aesthetic.
Now that fashion has turned away from the biker/ model off duty look, Marni seems like an obvious label to turn to. For fall 2010, Castiglioni showed her usual playful signatures. The earthy meets pastel color palette was great and the accessories were charming.
Although it wasn’t my favorite Marni collection, I always enjoy the way Castiglioni mixes precious (almost vintage) pieces with those that look synthetic and kind of futuristic. I also really liked the panelled socks as well as the cozy looking sweaters.