I’ve always been a fan of Conseulo Castiglioni’s pieces for Marni, however I’ve had a problem with how busy her runway presentations have gotten over the past few seasons. I find the shows to be way too long and composed of a cacophony of dissonant styles and prints. Its a shame, as the strength of each garment can’t be appreciated. I was ecstatic that this wasn’t the case for fall. The collection Castiglioni showed was edited and sober, in Marni terms, resulting in a solid, cohesive collection.
What is so appealing about Marni is that the clothing can be eccentric, strange, luxurious and glamorous all at once. The quirkiness of the geometric prints, bright colors and jewelry, mixed with the elongated, elegant silhouette made for looks that were desirable both for their luxe factor, as well as their unique look. I loved the geometrics, some done in bold shades, such as green, blue and yellow, others reduced to just octagons.
I found that many of the Milan shows were lacking in outerwear this season. Castiglioni, however, offered up some really great options. The leathers she showed at the end were severe in their simplistic cuts. Shown how they were, layered over furs, made them look softer though. I also really enjoyed how precious an off-white dress and coat combo appeared. The beading at the bottom was just the right detail to make the ensemble really special. My favorite piece of the entire show, however, was the green and brown fur coat worn over a pink skirt and camel sweater. Its deep, contrasting colors were exemplary of how Marni manages to occupy a space somewhere between an expensive sophistication and a charming playfulness.