Christopher Kane Fall 2011
I really think that Christopher Kane was successful in evoking a dark, severe mood for his fall collection, without resorting to a colorless palette or conventional ideas of toughness. In fact, the materials were anything but. Yet there was something menacing and sexy about the girls as they walked down the runway.
The crocheted wool should have conjured up comfortable, homely memories. However these were neutralized when accompanied with boxy, dark, patchy jackets. Even though there was an effervescence and lightness to the final sequined looks, they were also undeniably strange with their high plastic collars.
This plastic was the leitmotif of the entire show and for me, the most directional and interesting part of it. Plastics already seem to be popular this season, as we’ve seen at Marc Jacobs. I would argue, however, that Kane’s use of the material was even more odd. It resembled the edges of an inflatable swimming pool. According to Style.com, it was filled with liquid, bringing to mind teething devices meant for babies. The colors this plastic took on, the shapes it was moulded into and the spaces it occupied literally took it to alien realms. There was an amphibious quality to dresses that had entire torsos composed of it. The childhood and extra terrestrial connotations got even weirder because of the erotic applications of the material. The plunging necklines the plastic was used on and its transparency were incredibly sexy, not to mention its rubbery texture, almost asking to be touched.